Christian Dior

CHRISTIAN DIOR

(1905 – 1957, France) Dior’s youth is marked by the death of his mother and the father’s business crash. In this period he starts working in fashion: he draw women’s hats for the hat designer Agnès and clothing for “Le Figaro Illustre.” He also works for other houses, like the maison Piguet where he is successful thanks to the loose skirt to dress in the daytime. When the war starts he stops his activity until ’41. After then he begins working for Lucine Lelong meeting with success, until in 1946 he decides to open a fashion house together with the manufacturer of fabric Boussac Marcel who thinks it can be a good business. Actually Dior needs at least 15 meters of cloth for each skirt. In 1947 he presents his first collection “Ligne Corolle” by the Americans called the “New Look” and has a resounding success: it denotes a strong femininity and a return to the past (it looks like the fashion of 1860 and in fact he said he was inspired by the clothes worn by her mother), characterized by corset constriction which makes a very small waist, the use of basques and thin shoulders figure contrasting with very puffy skirts: he proposed the opposite of Chanel and Poiret style. He slowly makes changes to his clothing because of the feminists who feel they are relegate again in the alternative to man and also people thinks he uses to much material to make dress. Accordingly he decides to shorten the skirt, pick it up on behind and create bag jackets: the line is sweeter, not in H -shaped. From ’47 to ’56 he gives a name to each collection (illusion line, vertical, long, curved, tulip-shaped, arrow, bag), often it’s the name of a letter (line A, Y, etc.).
However, what sets his line are very large pleated skirts indeed (because supported by petticoats) and arriving in mid-calf, while the upper body is wearing a shaped bodice with bones. The sleeves are three-quarters and the shoulders are rounded . He also adds accessories such as hats and gloves.
During this period Dior is a leader in the field of fashion also because processes innovative collections and built up to the smallest details, while accessories take a second place: he only creates the essential. His last collection is born in 1957, in fact the following year Yves Saint Laurent will draw the trapeze line, collecting a huge success. But soon Yves Saint Laurent will be replaced by Marc Bohan, judged as more in line with the Maison style.
Up to March 2011 at the head of the label there was John Galliano, who did not follow strictly the spirit of Dior as he is too excessive and ironic.
Now the creative director is Bill Gaytten, former assistant of Galliano. Person in charge of the John Galliano brand, brand owned by the LVMH group, he has been plagued by the international press at the Galliano fashion show in Paris in September 2011.

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