Gianfranco Ferrè

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ

 

 

(1944 – 2007; Italy) His adventure in the fashion world begins after the graduation in architecture from Politecnico in Milan in 1969, with the immediate success of his first creations, eccentric accessories and jewels. He also works in India for several years and it will affect his creativity. In 1978 he founds his own fashion company and between 1989 and 1996 becomes the Artistic Director for Christian Dior for the Haute Couture, Prêt-à-Porter and Fourrure lines. As soon as he leaves the French fashion house, since 1996, his brand starts to expand with the launch of several new clothing and accessories lines (including GFF Gianfranco Ferré, Gianfranco Ferré Jeans and Gianfranco Ferré for children).

The training in the architecture field influences  his style so that a marked and formal rigor accords to the purest design; there’s a unique care in cuts and constructions, a decisive attention for the quality of materials and an original and specific details processing. Ferré revisited some parts of the canonical male and female wardrobe, often re-examining the functions and the forms of use. He reinterpreted, for example, the woman suit, combining the femininity of the lines that marks the body with the rigor of the typical masculine fabrics, sober and rigid, like the pin striped. In contrast, he created “man” shirts, but with female materials, intangible and seductive.  Ferré’s style emblem is the white organza blouse that he declined countless times, at every turn playing with shapes and proportions, and its highlight parts, so the neck and the wrists. The innovation regarding materials is also important. He always liked relating them directly. He loved touching, handling, inventing and reinventing them and also changing them: here comes the first stretch and “revealing” tulle, rubberized lace, latex beachwear, the jeans which seems paper, the shirt which seems fur, the “animal prints”, the leather made pliant like the fabric and matched with the lace, the crumpled silk like the paper.

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